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3 Days in Edinburgh: Tattoos, Islander, Witchery, the macabre and more!

11 minutes ago
8 min read

(May 2024)


I was due to come back in the fall of 2020, but we all know why that was delayed. So, after Covid, it was a priority for me to find a way to make it back to my beloved Scotland. It wasn't until May 2024 that I could make that trip again. I was in a new relationship for a few months when it was time to travel and decided that continuing going solo, as per my past trips, still felt right. I was anticipating my mother's health to take a turn sometime in the near future, work was booming and my responsibilities were increasing, and with this growing new relationship I didn't have much confidence that if I waited another year that I would be able to prioritize going for myself. And, as it turned out, I was right. My mom's cancer came back, my role at work expanded, and my relationship bloomed so much that we got engaged in April 2025 and married in May 2026. So the time was right.


DAY 1: Arriving

Visiting Edinburgh feels like home to me - that city has my heart in a hold that I never could have anticipated before my first trip there back in 2015. I planned to stay a few days in my favorite city with a focus on doing some specific experiences for myself that I have been wanting to do for some time.


I found a stunning one bedroom apartment on the Royal Mile (High Street) next door to John Knox's house on Airbnb. It was the perfect spot to access all of my favorites around the city. And, it was right next to ones of the locations for the City Sightseeing Bus stops. The flat was situated with everything I needed - full bath, spacious bedroom, expansive kitchen & dining area and a beautiful, bright and airy living space that overlooked the Royal Mile.


I checked into my flat in the late afternoon and enjoyed relaxing and unpacking as I got cleaned up for an easy dinner. As soon as I walked into the flat, I opened up the windows to let in the crisp Scottish air and bustling sounds of High Street.



I popped over to The Nether Bow Port Cafe & Bistro for a bit of pasta and avocado toast. I also took home a couple of scones and a piece of cake to have on hand the next couple of days. Delightful! The staff were incredibly warm and welcoming.





DAY 2: Sights and Ink

My morning started off with a yummy breakfast at Mary's Bistro of french toast and berries and, of course, a hot pot of tea. The plan for the day was to hop onto the City Sightseeing Bus to take in the scenery and jump on/off when I find a spot to explore. Following some much needed reuniting with the city sights, I had a very important appointment in the afternoon I was very much looking forward to.


Popped onto the City Sightseeing Bus for the quickest way to see as much as I can!
Popped onto the City Sightseeing Bus for the quickest way to see as much as I can!

Some of the favorite areas of the city are...

*Old Tolbooth

*Holyrood Palace

*Arthur's Seat & Holyrood Park

*Calton Hill

*Scott Monument & Princes St Gardens

*St. Andrews Square

*Stockbridge/Circus Lane

*Dean Village

*Grassmarket & Victoria St

*Greyfriar's Kirkyard

*Edinburgh Castle

*Royal Mile (Castlehill/Lawnmarket/High Street/Cannongate)


There are so many more spots, but these are the ones that I "must see" to really feel like I am reconnecting with the place that I love so much - even if it's a quick passing by on the city bus!



One place that I ALWAYS make sure that I step by to see is the National Museum of Scotland. It is always free to visit. Their standing exhibits are very impressive and gives a great foundation to the deep history of Scotland - prehistoric to modern history - with countless artifacts. And, their temporary exhibits and displays are always full of vibrancy and pride.


Make sure you plan your visit to the National Museum of Scotland when you come to Edinburgh - make it a priority! You won't be disappointed.


It is located just across the corner from Greyfriar's Kirkyard which is another icon of the city!



Next stop: my tattoo with Erica! We had been in communication on the idea of the design for several weeks ahead of my trip. The inspiration was combining Scotland's national animal, the unicorn, with the geometric modern shapes of the Kelpies, and surrounded by thistles and poppies. She was amazing! We met at her shop, Semper, in the historic Grassmarket. We had a great time chatting up a storm and watching her bring my tattoo ideas to life. It will forever be something I cherish and take with me where I go. Check out my TikTok video of my session!


After my appointment, I enjoyed a light lunch at Holyrood Palace's tea room along with a nice long walk (and ride) around the city dropping off at the top of the Royal Mile at Castlehill. I enjoyed watching street performers, listening to the bagpipes play along, and shopped at an artist's market for local gifts and crafts. I ended the evening with a burger and tots from Byron's before heading back to the flat for some rest before another big day.


DAY 3: Ready for My Close Up!

My morning started with meeting up with Gabby from Scotland Magic - an Aussie photographer based in Edinburgh who has been viral with her Main Character photoshoots and female empowerment club, Check out my blog post on our collaboration and stunning photos as a result of our time together. We met up at The Milkman - a local favorite coffee shop. From there we ventured out to several locations to 'capture the magic'.


After the shoot, I was starving! So, I popped by Biddy Mulligan's for a full Scottish breakfast. Biddy's has a special place in my heart. It is located next door to the Grassmarket Hotel - the very first place I stayed at in Scotland back in 2015. With my stay there, breakfast was included with my room and enjoyed at Biddy's. I would bring my laptop with me and blog about my adventures each day while grabbing a bite to eat. And, nearly 10 years later, it still held up and was just as I hoped it would be.


Next up on my trip, I had booked a seat for the Islander UK bag making course. The TikTok algorithm worked overtime when it knew I was planning to come back to Scotland and of course I had to join in on the experience.


I booked 2 projects in a single session - they don't recommend this, but I was able to work quickly within the time limit to build both my backpack and toiletry bag. The shop itself is stunning with wall-to-wall options of accessories all featuring Harris tweed.


At the time, they had 2 locations, only 1 of which had the workshops. They have now expanded greatly and offer many more options and experiences. Be sure to check out the Islander UK website for the latest offerings, prices, locations and hours. I joined in on the fun at their Candlemaker Row location here just off of Grassmarket next to Greyfriar's Kirkyard.


When you join the class, you are greeted with very warm, welcoming and friendly staff. You're in great hands and they will walk you through the entire process. So no need to worry! No experience is needed and the actual building of your item is very simple to do. The workshop is lined with rows and rows of modular components of various colors that you can mix and match to create your unique creation. Check out my TikTok video of the process!



For the last leg of my day, I booked a very special dining experience at The Witchery - a luxury 5-star hotel and restaurant. This was a real treat to myelf and something that I have always wanted to do. The restaurant is tucked in a historic building at the base of Edinburgh Castle on Castlehill at the top of the Royal Mile. To access the restaurant, you walk down a cozy close (alley) and come up to an ivy covered entrance. Inside you will find dark woodwork, tapestries and candlelit tables. The wait staff are lovely and welcoming and very dedicated to providing top notch service and made me very comfortable, even when I am dining on my own.


They do book several months out especially during peek tourist seasons, so be sure to book in advance. There are two different dining areas with very different aesthetics - but equally magical. I dined in the original dining room - I suggest this space for evening dining. There is also the Secret Garden dining room which feels light and airy with greenery surrounding you - I suggest this space for afternoon tea or lunch.


I ordered the pesto burrata, charcoal roll, lemon sole, and a pot of mashed potatoes. Every bite was delicious and dreamy. Check out my TikTok video and dine with me!



DAY 4: The living, the dead & the undead

I had a few hours to enjoy before I needed to check out of my AirbnbI started the day with another delicious breakfast at Mary's Bistro before heading out to finish my last day of sightseeing before moving out of the city. There were a few more spots I haven't explored yet that I wanted to make sure I visited. And, somehow I stuck to a theme...


1) St Cuthbert's Kirkyard - I am so glad that I had made this a priority to stop by. Greyfriar's, Calton Hill and Cannongate are ones that I have visited several times, but somehow I always missed St Cuthbert's. At the corner of Lothian and Princes St, it is nestled beneath the shadows of Edinburgh Castle. It is dated way back to the 7th century so it is one of the oldest burial sights and places of worship in the city. From here, I enjoyed walking around the city in the mist and rain - and of course when it got pretty consistent with the raindrops - I also enjoyed jumping back on the City Sightseeing Bus to dry off.

I needed a place to enjoy some lunch and remembered a spot that I was always curious about, and figured, why not? Frankenstein's is located near Greyfriar's and the National Museum of Scotland. When going about the area, you can't miss the 14ft tall monster standing at the entrance. It resides in an 18th century building which was formerly a church and has all the gothic and victorian aesthetics you'd expect with a funky steampunk and macabre twist. They are known to be a lively bar and party venue in the evenings, but enjoying a less busy lunch was just perfect. I ordered a fun mocktail and BBQ chicken pizza while I watched old horror movies playing, goth music pumping and fun lighting effects. Then, while Frankenstein was playing on screen and at the scene where the monster comes to life, an animatronic monster dropped from the ceiling and put on a show! A fun addition to the experience. Check out my TikTok video on my visit to Frankenstein's!


To finish off my vibes for the day, I had been wanting to visit a new witchy shop that opened in Edinburgh - Black Moon Botanica. Now, I have visited many many witchy shops and apothecaries - hey, I live in the Portland area, they are as common as Starbucks here! Even still, I wanted to experience a shop in the historic Edinburgh. It is located just a few doors down Islander UK on Candlemaker Row near Grassmarket. The tiny, dark and cozy shop offers a wide variety of tarot, oils, herbs, books, witchcraft tools and more.


To end my evening, I grabbed a heart dinner of steak pie, chips and veggies from a pub nearby my flat - The No.1 High Street Pub. Then I returned to pack the suitcase while getting ready for bed.


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DISCLOSURE: This is a personal blog written by Carrie Beth. Any products received as gifts will be disclosed in the post in which they appear. Any items that CurvesWithKicks receives for consideration of coverage on this blog or any social media platform, does not guarantee coverage. CurvesWithKicks will never sell, save or give contact information obtained from this blog. In all cases, my opinions are and will always be my own. For press inquiries, marketing, collaborations, sponsorship  & partnerships, please email me. 

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